Dobrodošli na Hvar

Welcome to Hvar!



Two trains and one boat later, we found ourselves on a small island off the coast of Croatia called Hvar. Our original plan from Budapest was to stay a couple of nights in Split (a small port town). Thankfully, on our second train we met Helene, a women we will be forever grateful to. Helene, a native of Croatia, told us we had to go to the island of Hvar explaining there was no need to spend more than a couple of hours in Split.



Relying entirely on her advice, we arrived in Split, grabbed a cup of coffee, strolled through town, and booked a ferry and last minute hotel on Hvar.



As we stepped off the ferry we took a look around. It was 80 degrees, not a cloud in the sky, and it felt like we were in the Virgin Islands… but better. The town was situated on the edge of tall mountains that lead straight into the crystal clear water of the Adriatic Sea. Our hotel was located in Milna, a neighboring town to Hvar. As we pulled into Milna our cab driver told us we had made the right choice as this was his favorite town on the island. We were wondering what he meant by "town".…there was a hotel, a beach, and a couple of small restaurants covering at most about an eighth of a mile.



We were greeted by Jurica, the chef of the Hotel Fortuna who carried our bags up to our room. We later found out he was also the owner. Jurica was extremely welcoming, friendly, and laid back. If anyone decides to go to Croatia you MUST stay at the Hotel Fortuna. He truly made us feel at home.



Once settled in, we were ready for the beach. The beach was nestled in a protected cove. The description on the website said it was a sandy beach, but sandy in Croatian must mean rocky. The right way to describe it was a pebble beach. It was beautiful. The water wasn’t as warm as we anticipated, but was the most refreshing/clean water we have ever swum in.





We spent the entire first day in the small town of Milna. We enjoyed lunch and dinner at our hotel. We know this isn’t a food blog, but we feel compelled to tell you about our meals at Hotel Fortuna. Jurica is one hell of a chef. For lunch we had his special fish dish and the best Greek salad ever. It reminded us of the one’s Betsy makes back home…no lettuce and an incredible fusion of flavors…not to mention more feta cheese than one should consume in a year. The fish dish was delicious as well…it was perfectly cooked (although I think they eat the bones and skin in Croatia)…and covered in a creamy sauce, hard to describe, but almost a tomato, peppery, cheesy...oh I don't know...simply perfection! For dinner, I decided to be adventurous and ordered the shark dish the waitress recommended. It was grilled and only lightly seasoned as to allow the true flavor to come through..again, absolutely delicious! Our entire meal including drinks was only $30.



On our second day we wanted to go back into town but were a bit deterred by the expensive cab fares…$20+ for 5km. We asked Jurica to call us a cab and he immediately offered us a ride. We offered to pay him which he adamantly refused. On the ride into town he drove us up to see his vineyard…oh by the way, he also makes his own wine which is cheap and delicious…Matt who doesn’t drink white wine…said it was the best wine he has ever drank! He also has a vast olive tree grove where he makes his own olive oil.

We decided the best way to see Hvar would be by renting a scooter. The two of us climbed on, strapped on ridiculous looking helmets, and headed off to explore. We took the “scenic route” which was beautiful but extremely frightening. Our parents would not have approved. As I clung onto Matt for my dear life we rode through the mountains cutting around tight turns with no guardrails!!

The highlight of our exploration was discovering Zarace…a secluded lagoon well hidden from the hustle and bustle of the main towns. The pictures are the only way to adequately show you how special this place truly was.


We went into Hvar to return the bike, grab a drink and have dinner. Beforehand we explored the town...getting a bit lost in the splendor of the narrow and steep streets...which were more like a labyrinth of alleys.


However, after having two glasses of wine on the waterfront that were more expensive than an entire liter at Hotel Fortuna…and not nearly as good...we changed our minds, got in a cab, and went back to eat yet another unforgettable meal prepared by Jurica. There was no restaurant in town that could compare to his meals and the even more appealing prices. We began our meal with gnocchi smothered in Gorgonzola sauce…and savored every bite, even managing to clean the remaining sauce off the plate with our bread. Following our “first course” we had mussels and grilled shrimp brochettes…all I can say is YUM!



We needed to travel 20km across the island to catch our early morning ferry to Dubrovnik the next day. Matt asked Jurica how to get there and confused he responded “what, I bring you!” as if we were crazy to think differently. After preparing us a free breakfast, before the kitchen officially opened, he kindly brought us to the ferry and showed us where to go. It was as if we were saying goodbye to friend as he pulled away…and we told him we would come back…I feel compelled to keep that promise! We are now on a 6 hour ferry down the Dalmatian Coast to Dubrovnik…a place I have always wanted to visit as my grandmother says it is one of her and my grandfather’s favorite places.

The island of Hvar is now in first place!


Stay thirsty my friends,

Lindsey and Matt